EQUIPMENT, SKILL, TIME, PARTS

I use the following tools:

14mm Thin Wall Spark Plug Socket, -- Metric Socket Set, -- General Torque Wrench (3/8th drive), CDI is my favortie brand. I use this wrench all the time.

Low skill is needed for this maintenance.

This task should take about 30 min or less.

Make sure your parts work for your vehicle. The parts are:

STEP #1:

First thing is to remove all the covers. The engine cover you just grab hold of and pull up. I also removed the plastic cover along the back of the engine bay. This needs to be removed because you will need the access to the back of the engine for the last two plugs. This large plastic cover is held on with industrial velcro as well as tabs that hook under and over each other.

STEP #2:

There is a large black plastic tray that goes along the back of the engine bay this is removed by undoing the screws along it and lifting it free.

Here is a look at it from the other side

STEP #3:

The air pipe is sadly in the way so it will also have to be removed. I ended up removing the cover on the air filter, undoing the clamps around the pipe connections. Unpluging the MAF sensor cables and then just moving the parts out of the way.

Here is what it looks like with the parts taken apart and moved out of the way.

STEP #4:

Now there is a black plastic wire harness tray that goes over the back of the engine. There is also a gray foam pad under it. We have to get the gray foam pad out and so we will have to remove the wire harness tray. Take the wires out, (no need to unplug them) and move them aside.

The harness tray has one screw and a plastic clip. You put your finger in like shown in the picture and lift up with the other hand and it will come free

STEP #5:

I had one last obstruction which was a tube on the side of the engine. I undid the one screw that holds it down and moved it out of the way as well. This is what the engine bay looks like now.

STEP #6:

Now there is full access to each spark plug. To get the spark plug out you need to pull up on the lever of the ignition coil and then unplug the cable.

Pull the lever all the way up.

STEP #5:

Once its unpluged you can use the ignition coil and gently but firmly pull the coil out. I used a socket extention through the hole in the coil lever and gently applied some leverage and that worked well for me. The space down into the spark plug is quite narrow and so you really do need the thin wall socket. Especially in the back. Use the proper toque to put in the new plugs.

One last thing is do be sure to get the coil seated properly and locked in place. Otherwise you will get an error and the car won't run well because the cyclinder isn't working.